Funghi Fritto
A totally luxe apéro snack.
by Erin Henderson
I wish I could tell you this recipe is mine.
It’s so delicious, and so straightforward, it’s genius. But I didn’t come up with it.
Pino Luongo did.
The Italian-born, New York City chef, restauranteur, and cookbook author wrote about it in his 2003 beautifully photographed book, La Mia Cucina Toscana: A Tuscan Cooks in America.
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I picked up this stunning collection of recipes probably 15 years ago from a bargain book bin for $5, of all prices. I’m sure highly insulting to Pino, but a fabulous find for me. His recipes are simple, paired down, completely manageable for cooks of all confidences, and deeply delicious.
For years, I’ve been making these fried mushrooms when I want to impress with a fancy snack at apéro. They never let me down.
What I love about this recipe is that the batter is so light, it’s nearly imperceptible to the eye. When biting into a freshly fried, hot mushroom, the delicate batter offers a gossamer crunch, revealing a plump, meaty mushroom underneath. They’re exquisite.
Pino recommends a Super Tuscan, but I much prefer a cold glass of bubbly with these little snacks.
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Funghi Fritto
This batter can also be used for artichokes in the spring, and zucchini or bell peppers in the summer. I serve these with my easy aioli for dipping.
Makes: 1 lb of mushrooms (generally enough for four people as a starter before dinner or as part of a cocktail menu)
Chef level: moderate
Ingredients:
- 400g mixed exotic sliced mushrooms (I like king and oyster best)
- 2 cups rice flour
- ¾ cup dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio
- ½ cup sparkling water
- 1/3 cup light lager
- Handful fresh thyme
- Salt and pepper to taste
- Vegetable or canola oil for frying
How to Make It:
- Set the oven to 200°F
- Gently warm 3-4 inches of oil in a large, deep pot over med-low heat until it reaches 330°F (see kitchen tips, below)
- Stir together the flour, wine, beer, sparkling water, thyme, and salt and pepper.
- When the oil is ready, dip the mushroom slices in the batter, covering well and carefully lay them in the hot oil.
- Allow them to fry for about 2 minutes, then turn them over and fry for another 2 minutes until slightly golden and crispy.
- Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon, placing on a wire rack with paper towel set underneath to drain. Sprinkle with salt
- Transfer to the warm oven on a tray to keep warm until serving – ideally not more than a few minutes.
Wine Pairing
As I mentioned above, I like cold bubbly with fried foods, and this is not exception. For a light and airy vibe a fruity, yet dry, Prosecco hits the spot, and for a more serious pairing, opt for a Blancs de Blanc that has both the earthy flavours of the mushrooms but the lemony verve to bring lift to the fried batter.
Kitchen Tips for Success
- Our lawyer wants you to know oil gets really hot and can be super dangerous. Use a deep pot for frying to avoid any risk of boiling over, and make sure to gently warm the oil – do not crank the heat to high hoping to speed things along. That will not end well.
- A candy thermometer is a good idea to monitor the heat. If you don’t have one, you will see the oil start to shimmer and a drop of water will sizzle immediately.
- The oil will drop in heat once the food is added, sometimes as much as 50-70°F. To get the mushrooms crispy, don’t over crowd the pot, cook in batches if necessary and keep the cooked batches warm in the oven until serving. Wait until the oil has returned to the proper heat before adding more mushrooms.
- Rice flour is heavier and tends to fall to the bottom of the batter; before dipping in the mushrooms give the batter a good stir to ensure it’s incorporated.